We just got back from a 9 day trip to the Gaspé Peninsula. It was a whirlwind of a trip as we covered just over 3500 km in a fairly short time. We had to make frequent stops as the scenery was spectacular and ever-changing, from quaint fishing villages, beaches, and lighthouses to Appalachian cliffs, forests, geological features, and heritage around every turn. We give you what we thought were the highlights of our trip. Hopefully it leaves enough for your imagination to make you want to go there yourself. Be sure to scroll all the way down to see some stats and numbers. You can always click on any of the photos for a larger view.
A Long Scenic Drive along the Coast
Route 132 took us along the St. Lawrence River, estuary, and gulf. We watched the scenery change as the river became wider, deeper and saltier. The circle around the peninsula is about 850 km.
The route is also called the route of the Navigators and has many fishing villages that are today a testimony to the region’s long marine history.
The descent to Percé Bay is simply breathtaking
And Rocher Percé was definitely one of the main highlights of the route.
Rest Stops and Public Art
They do things differently in Quebec. The viewing and rest areas along the way are frequent, spectacular, and usually have some form of art installation. Many are quirky. Take a peak at some of them.
Marcel Gangon Art Centre outside of St Flavie and its unique display of statues emerging from the tide.
There are art Installations everywhere!
An amazing sunset on the beach at Carelton-sur-Mer
Architecture
The architecture ranges from the colourful, ornate, quaint, very old, to very modern
Lighthouses,
Bridges,
and Waterfalls
Beach Walks, Treasures, and Rock Formations
Ah, the beaches…each and every beach was different. Some were covered in sea weed, some were rocky, and some covered in jasper and agate (yes, we have a box full of shiny rocks…). The rock formations are striking – especially the Indian Head and Percé Rock.
Museums
Many museums were closed for the season, but enough were open or had outdoors displays featuring the rich natural and cultural history of the peninsula
This outdoors museum at Percé lays claim to being the birthplace of Canada.
Forillon National Park has trails running along the water with several exhibits of villages that were settled by Catholic, Methodist, Anglicans, and Jews living side by side.
Logging museum at Canyon des Portes de L’enfer at Sainte Narcisse de Rimouski
The Miguasha National Park is a UNESCO Heritage Site and houses our earliest ancestors linking sea and land among other fossils from the Devonian Period
Site Historique de la Maison Lamontagne. The house dates back to 1744. On the grounds there is a wonderful architectural display.
The Banc-De-Paspébiac National Historic Site represents three centuries of fishing history and unique architecture. It boasts the largest wooden house in North Amarica
We did find a ghost town. By accident of course. We thought that we are going to see a memorial to Saint Jean de Brébeuf the Jesuit missionary, but instead it was for a community of the same name that is no more.
Food
Around every corner there is a poissonnerie, fromagerie, or a boulangerie
So much cheese!
We were able to constraint ourselves until we were no longer able to. then we went crazy and bought a whole bunch of cheeses and smoked fish. It made for some very good lunches!
We didn’t eat out much, but the one time we did it was at the La Boucanerie del Tonio in Lotbinière for Tonio’s version of Mexican fries and smoked meat tacos. We don’t normally gush over fries, but both tacos and fries were amazing! Another meal by the water!
Not local wine, but made us feel better for not spotting any real little penguins. Or seals.
This was local and delicious!
Wildlife
There were birds everywhere. Cormorants, Herons, Gulls, and ducks to mention a few, but getting close to this porcupine at Forillon Park was certainly a highlight
as were the whales that followed us along the trail that we went on in the park.
The biggest surprise was on or way back when we ran into this mama bear and her cubs.
We were in that same spot 10 minutes before so it could have been a face-to-face encounter.
Oh, and this guy was just cute and we like this picture.
VAN-ity Shots
We can’t help it. We have to take some shots of Miss Buffy.
Where we stayed
Sep. 27 – On our first night we stayed at a truck stop in Morrisburgh, Ontario. This was the first time that we slept in a truck stop ever. We had a small interruption early in the morning when a trucker was trying to start his truck loudly, but other than that it was fine.
Sep. 28 – I think that this can qualify as boondocking. We spent the night on a wharf next to the museum and memorial for the Empress of Ireland shipwreck at Pointe au Peré. Great view of the water and the light house. Too bad it was cold and rainy.
Sep. 29 – First night in paid campground at the Petit Gaspé campground in Forillon National Park. We got there late so we weren’t charged admission just $25.50 for a site without hookups.
Sep. 30 – You just couldn’t beat the view at this campground! This is Côte Surprise campground just outside Percé. Waking up to this view was priceless, but we did pay $25 for a site without hookups. Make sure to have some cash on hand f you are travelling off season as many of the campgrounds take cash only.
Oct. 1 – Aux Flots Bleu campground is just outside of Carleton sure Mer. It was almost deserted, only one other class B van. IT was $20 cash.
Oct. 2 (Tony’s birthday) – We opted for a site with hookups for the first time. The nights were getting cold and we wanted to have the ceramic heater on all night. Still not comfortable sleeping with the propane heater on. We stopped at Motel Métis Campgrounds and paid $35 for the luxury of electricity and water. Of course we used the opportunity to dump as well.
Oct. 3 – Quebec has a lot of municipal campgrounds that are perfect for a quick in and out, or an overnight if you are on the road. This one was at St. Fabien and we paid $31 for a sit with electricity, water, and water view. The were 3 Class Bs in the park including us and no one else. Made for a pretty quite night.
Oct. 4 – This was by far the most expensive campground we stayed in, but we were grateful to find it as all of the campgrounds along the way were closed and we were losing hope of finding an open one. It was $45.89 with services with a great sunset a visit by deer in the morning.
Oct. 5 – We thought that we will stay another night at a truck stop, but ended up pushing all the way home. We made it home just after midnight so it’s Oct. 6th and Margie’s birthday.
This was a good double birthday trip!
BY THE NUMBERS
- number of nights: 8 (average per night (C$26)
- km traveled: 3,590
- fuel consumption: average of 7.06 km/l (16.6 mpg)
- cost of fuel, accommodations, and entry fees: C$1,023
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Wonderful adventure. Did your dog go along?
She sure did! She had a good time too, although the hikes are getting a bit hard for her.
We did a Gaspe, NB, PEI, NS trip this summer and just loved the Gaspe area. Canada has great locations visit.
It sure does! As does the entire continent…so many places to see!
Happy Birthday to you both – and thank you so much for taking the time to share your experience. It is now definitely on my bucket list!
Thanks for the birthday wishes! I’m sure you will love it!
Thank You for your visit in our province.
For sure, traveling that late in the season had to be chilly a bit.
The advantage is that you got to see all those wild animals.
They come out of the woods more after the tourist season.
B traveling is also my plan A
Happy birthday !
Thanks for the birthday wishes from both of us! What a beautiful province indeed! Can’t wait to go back. It was a bit chilly, but mostly at night and he bonus was that we had the peninsula to ourselves 🙂
Nice loop trip. Looks like you guys are enjoying your new home on wheels!
We are loving it!
Love to see more of your blog write ups…. vicariously live that VanLife 🙂
we took almost the exact same route a few years back…. from Toronto to PEI.
we went south at Rivière-du-Loup instead of continuing east to Gaspe.
Time to come back and this time continue straight! We loved it!
Love the pictures, especially the statues emerging from the tide.
Thanks! The statues are very powerful!